This was a beautiful and easy motor sail. No wind so the engine was needed most of the 44 hours. On December 23rd, just as we were to take the cut into the West End of Roatan the engine cut out on us. Seemed to be a fuel issue. We stalled for an hour outside the cut “fixing the issue”. We started by replacing the fuel filter. No success. Then we remembered that we now have 2 fuel tanks and that we had made the crossing on the small tank that only holds 23 gallons! The large tank was full and it is necessary to manually switch the tanks….. Yes we knew that… But thought we were on the large tank to begin with! We are still getting used to having 2 tanks. In October 2014 our original 90 gallon tank developed a leak and it had to be cut out and replaced with the 2 smaller tanks.
We spent Christmas and New Years at the anchorage at West End. West End is a touristy area loaded with restaurants, hotels, dive shops and tourist shopping all on one road. We always seem to meet people who are intrigued with our lifestyle as live-aboard boaters and the conversations with many questions go on for hours.
On January 4th, our nomadic nature said it was time to move on to French Harbor. Brooks’s Point Marina is no longer the hot spot that it was 4 years when I spent my vacation (before my retirement) with Bob. They no longer have nightly or even weekly events. You can get a beer but no food. Frenchies 44 is usually a good bet and it was for my birthday dinner. We spent a couple days on the boat playing cards due to rainy weather.
Due to a lack of activity we decided to move on to Jonesville Cay, Roatan where we heard the snorkeling was good. We went to Hole in the Wall with Ed (from Florida) at the bar and Erica, a local with a passion for cooking. I got homemade tortillas from her and made enchiladas on the boat. The next day we had lobster with them.
Oh, and the snorkeling was nice. Lots of folks from Florida and other parts of the USA in this area. They say that it is “Hurricane safe” saying that the reef breaks up the force of the winds. Hmmmm…… Remember Mitch?? We did stay at this anchorage for a few days due to westerly winds and we were protected in the cove. Next we headed to Barbareta Cay, Roatan. This is a well guarded private island–lush healthy forest with an airstrip. From where we anchored we could see the armed guards come out and look at us. Soon they realized we were not a threat and went back to their designated guard shacks. Not too far out are the Pigeon Islands.
We went out there to fish and snorkel. It had to be one of the most beautiful coral of many varieties that we have seen. From Barbareta Cay we headed to the West side of Granaja. Granaja was wiped out when Hurricane Mitch stalled over the island in 1998. We anchored at Michael’s Rock and walked to the Green Flash. Bob has good memories of the Green Flash in 2008 when he, Barbara and Jorge went on vacation there. Now they only cook once a week but you can get a beer. Snorkeling was good and I even caught a small pan fryer sized grunt for dinner. On January 15th we moved on to the east side of Granaja at Graham’s Cay for staging to the Viva Rios Islands. This would be our first stop on our trek to Columbia and Panama. Once we anchored we thought it would be nice to go out to dinner. The first thing we do when we go out is get on the WIFI and check for messages/email. I received a message from earlier that day that my dad was seriously ill and in the hospital in California. All plans thwarted and we returned to Roatan the next day. We checked into Brooksy Point Marina and flew to California on January 17th. Once to California, my dad had an amazing recovery and was able to go home. Since we were there, we took advantage of the time and ordered some items from Amazon and some other shopping for things we are unable to obtain in Central America. We returned to Roatan on February 1st.
Once again we will attempt our passage to Panama. Provisioning and prepping the boat for travel and waiting for good weather. First stop, Sandy Bay, Granaja on February 4th where we stayed due to bad weather until February 16th. While in Sandy Bay we found good food and company at the Manatee. A old hippy looking fellow who writes books… A few transplants from the USA, Germany and Canada. Hans has the pizza joint next door to the Manatee. We met some great boaters too. Kat & Rick on S/V Sea Dragon, Kathie & Kevin on S/V Mijo, Eric & Anook on S/V Foxfire, all from the Upper New York area and lower Canada area. They wanted us to travel with them to Belize saying we should be part of their “double-ender Pirate group”. We all laughed as we said our good-byes thinking our paths would never meet again. As we made our way to Cayo Cajones (Hobbies) the wind was in our face so we were motoring. 22 hours into our passage, the water pump cracked and a hose blew. We are now without an engine with the wind in our face. The only recourse was to turn around and sail back to Roatan to obtain (order) parts. On the way back to Roatan I caught and released a nice sized sailfish.
Our sail was a great one with speeds up to 7.5kph! Upon arrival to Fantasy Island on Roatan we had some difficulty getting through on the radio for a tow into the Marina. Fortunately I still had TIGO time on my phone and was able to contact a local fisherman (Sherman who also runs the Iguana farm) who gave us a tow. Assistance to the dock would be needed with dinghies. Just then we hear “Hey, Inca Rose, we knew you wanted to head to Belize with us!” It was our friends from Granaja! They assisted us into the dock with Steve and Debbie who were the ‘Dock Masters in training’ at Fantasy Island. Now the waiting began. Bob ordered parts from the USA promptly. Over the next 18 days worked on sanding, varnishing, cleaning mildew, and all of the normal boat sprucing up.
On March 8th I felt impending doom…. I don’t know how to explain it… It is just a gut feeling. Then on March 9th in the early morning, I got word that my dad was in critical condition with a brain injury. Later I found out that he had spent March 8th the in the emergency room being checked for a brain bleed and was released at 2pm to go home. At 7pm is when he had the major bleed. I arrived in California at the hospital on the 9th at 3:30AM and held his hand until he passed away at 7:55PM.
I spent 4 weeks with my mom working out all the logistics. California was beautiful with all the wildflowers that the rains brought. We have not had a bloom like this for years.
Bob worked on Inca Rose in my absence. He did find mechanic Percy, who is quite knowledgeable. I returned on April 6th with 63 pounds of boat parts in my luggage. Now the finishing touches could be completed. In the meantime, I spent my days like a luxury tourist hanging out on the beach and splashing around in the crystal clear waters and making friends. Dock Master Debbie (Delphinia) and I power walked in the early mornings alternating with Hildi’s Callen Pinkney exercises that were much like a combination of yoga and Pilates. Then in the afternoons hopped into the water for a swim.
On April 19th the engine work was completed and we began our preparations to leave Roatan again. On April 22nd the weather was in our favor and we shoved off of the Marina dock with the waving good-bye to our new found friends.
GOOD-BYE ROATAN!!
S/V Inca Rose 